Today I'm taking you to Namibia, a land where every grain of sand tells a story. Here, the sand is not only the foundation of the earth, but it is the soul that breathes, lives and dances with the wind, containing stories of times immemorial. It is from these small grains of sand that the world was created, and it is precisely from here that our journey begins.
After renting pick-ups in one of the many car sharing facilities at the airport and renting camping equipment, we leave the capital, Windhoek , to head north. Already from the first kilometers this territory presents us with an element that will accompany us throughout the journey: dust. Here, people seem to live with these small particles that rise at the slightest breath of wind and inexorably cover everything.
Before crossing the gates of the Etosha park, we visit the Cheetah Conservation Fund , an important center near Otjiwarongo that deals with the protection of cheetahs and their ecosystems. Founded in 1990 by Laurie Marker, the CCF plays a crucial role in scientific research, community education and conservation initiatives to prevent cheetah population decline. Among its activities, the CCF implements breeding and reintroduction programs, educating farmers on methods of coexisting with predators, and promoting habitat conservation.
A little further north, the effervescent Etosha Park extends over an area of approximately 22,270 square kilometers where wild animals are masters in the art of living with dust. Here, wildlife has adapted in surprising ways to survive in an environment dominated by vast open spaces and dusty terrain, demonstrating incredible resilience and ingenuity. The park is home to more than 114 species of mammals and over 340 species of birds. Among the most notable mammals are the black and white rhinos, both at risk of extinction, as well as lions, elephants, leopards, cheetahs and large herds of zebras and antelopes. Vegetation varies from short salt marsh grass to denser savannas and shrubs, which provide food and shelter for animals.
A unique feature of the park is the Etosha Pan , a vast salt depression spanning approximately 5,000 km² that dries out during the dry season, leaving behind a lunar landscape of salt crusts, visible even from space.
The night in Etosha Park is a spell. In silence, near the waterholes located near some campsites, you can observe a scene that has been repeated every night for thousands of years: animals emerging cautiously from the darkness to quench their thirst. It is to experience these magical nocturnal observations that we have chosen to pitch our tents in the Halali, Namutoni and Okaukuejo camps .
After three days spent in the Etosha Park and our hearts overflowing with wonder at the close encounters with wildlife, we resume our journey and after endless hours behind the wheel of our pick-ups, we arrive in the heart of a Himba village , where we come from welcomed with warm hospitality.
The Himba tribe, residing in northern Namibia, is renowned for its semi-nomadic lifestyle and unique cultural traditions. Among these, the use of otjize ( oh-chee-zeh) stands out, a mixture of ocher and butter that women apply to their skin and hair as protection from the sun and insects.
This community maintains a close connection with nature and ancestral practices, despite the influence of the modern world. One of these practices is dance, which connects the Himba to the spirits and is characterized by fast-paced rhythms, accompanied by songs and clapping of hands. The movements of the body and feet, which raise whirlwinds of dust with every step, reconnect the tribe with the earth and nature. We witness scenes of daily life, but also rituals that celebrate their indissoluble union with the land and while the sun sets over the villages , we treat ourselves to a dinner under the stars of the magical Namibian nights, an experience that fully embodies the spirit of adventure.
At the first light of dawn we set off north, towards the border with Angola, where the Kunene River divides the two countries, flowing impetuously across the land until it reaches the spectacular Epupa Falls . These thunderous waterfalls, known for their picturesque landscape and tumultuous waters, are formed by a succession of waterfalls, the highest of which reaches approximately 37 metres. The area around Epupa Falls is characterized by lush baobab vegetation and makalani palms , which offer a stark contrast to the arid surrounding areas, making the landscape even more unique.
With the thunderous sound of water in the background, we follow a quiet path along the river to explore the rich life that populates its banks. During the trek, we make a surprising discovery: the river is infested with crocodiles! This presence adds a thrill of emotion to our adventure, highlighting the wild beauty and hidden dangers of this fascinating ecosystem.
Traveling south, we enter Damaraland . A place where dust once again becomes the protagonist, together with some of its most majestic inhabitants: the magnificent desert elephants , unfortunately today at risk of extinction. These giants travel kilometers in the dust in search of water and are living proof of resilience, as if to remind us that even in the hardest of journeys, there is room for joy.
Guided by the wild spirit of desert elephants, we choose to camp in the heart of nowhere, in an isolated corner of the world where there are no roads, telephones are silent without a signal, and civilization seems a distant memory. This type of experience invites us to reflect on what is truly essential in life and how essentiality can offer a clarity that is often lost in the daily chaos.
The following day is dedicated entirely to the journey to the Skeleton Coast , a long and challenging route that forces us to stop for a night at the Hoada Campsite, located near Palmwag . This campsite, nestled in a wild and picturesque setting, offers an ideal retreat to recharge your batteries before tackling the rest of the journey to the coast.
Regenerated after a night's rest, we set off again at the first light of dawn and the journey continues along the dusty roads, through canyons that recall the scenarios of American western films. As we proceed, the hills give way to smaller and smaller dunes, until the landscape completely flattens into a vast carpet of sand that seems to prostrate itself before the ocean. In the vast and inhospitable landscape of the Skeleton Coast, there is a plant species that creates a connection between the desert and the ocean: welwitschia mirabilis . This extraordinary plant fights against dust and sand to exploit the humidity of ocean mists, the only sources of water in this arid land and can live up to 1000 years,
The Skeleton Coast located in the northwestern part of Namibia, it is one of the most remote and fascinating coasts in the world. Stretching for around 500 km from the Kunene River in the north to the Swakop River in the south, this region is famous for its inhospitable environment and takes its name for being a veritable graveyard of ships and wreckage that the sand has welcomed into its womb. Each wreck tells a story and, if you listen closely, you have the impression of hearing the voices of old sailors narrating adventures of storms and hidden treasures.
Heading south, we stop at Cape Cross to visit one of the largest fur seal colonies in Namibia. Tens of thousands of specimens live here and, as we walk on the beach, we cannot help but notice the liveliness of these marine mammals, who play, rest and interact, reminding us of the richness and variety of wild life in this extraordinary country.
The coast that kisses this ocean is a true spectacle of nature, where the sea meets the desert in an embrace that leaves you breathless. Taking advantage of the low tide we decide to travel along this strip of land to explore the ancestral border between desert and ocean. For this part of the journey, however, we resort to the use of more powerful jeeps to have even more fun among the natural ups and downs of the desert dunes.
Leaving the energy of Cape Cross and the majestic desert dunes behind us, we head inland until we reach a mountain that stands solemnly at 1728 meters high in the middle of an immense plain.
It is the Spitzkoppe , also known as the "Matterhorn of Namibia", whose imposing granite formations are around 120 million years old and seem to observe you with intensity. Its peaks and sloping walls are an iconic landmark in the region and a paradise for climbing and trekking lovers.
The most magical moment to savor the true beauty of this place occurs when the sun shyly emerges on the horizon, inflaming the rocky walls with a warm and intense light. And it is precisely for this reason that the appointment with dawn is considered an unmissable ritual for all explorers. But not only. A guided trek takes us to the discovery of ancient rock carvings, testimony to the cultural heritage of the San people , historical custodians of the wisdom and secrets of nature, who have kept their traditions alive despite the challenges imposed by modernity. We discover that our guide is a descendant of this people, in fact he introduces us to the profound meaning of these engravings using the ancient Khoisan language , known for its distinctive clicking sounds, produced through a clicking mechanism involving the tongue and palate, a characteristic which enriches every word with unique nuances. Listening to it is like taking a journey through time, where every click resonates like an echo of the past stories of this ancient people.
The exploration of this incredible country continues with a visit to two iconic places: Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, two coastal cities located on the Atlantic coast of Namibia.
Swakopmund is a seaside town somewhere between Germany's colonial past and modern adventure tourism, offering a wide range of activities, from water sports like kitesurfing and windsurfing, to desert sports like sandboarding and quad biking. Activities that obviously we also wanted to do at all costs.
Just to the south is the town of Walvis Bay , known for its natural harbor and rich wildlife viewing opportunities. Walvis Bay Lagoon is an internationally important site for waterfowl and attracts huge colonies of pink flamingos, pelicans and other migratory bird species.
The dusty roads lead us south, but before reaching the Namib desert, the last destination of this journey, we stop for an obligatory stop in Solitaire , a dusty and desolate farm located among the dusty plains, which from its name alone does not need of further presentations. Here, it seems that time has stopped: the skeletons of cars scattered everywhere give the place a village atmosphere of the old American West. We stop to enjoy the first coffee of the trip and, above all, to taste what is considered the best apple pie in the world. We can only confirm this reputation.
With full bellies and hearts full of joy, we arrive in the presence of the Namib , the oldest desert in the world, with over 55 million years of history.
A scenic flight on a private plane is the best way to admire its infinite expanse that stretches for over 2,000 kilometers along Namibia's Atlantic coast. This aerial adventure gives us an unparalleled natural spectacle, where time seems to suspend between its orange dunes and a breathtaking sunset.
Among the dunes of Sossusvlei , hidden in the embrace of the highest dune in the Namib, called Big Daddy due to its 390 meters of height, there is a true natural treasure: Deadvlei . An ancient clay expanse nestled among the dunes, famous for its ghostly dead trees that stand against a backdrop of orange dunes and deep blue sky. This surreal landscape, dating back approximately 900 years, offers a unique setting in the world, where time seems to have stopped, capturing the essence of an immutable and silent beauty.
And so our unforgettable journey through Namibia ends, a land of contrasts, where the sand holds ancient stories of survival and beauty, testimony to the incredible strength and magic of this wild land.
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